After H&M’s 63 Portuguese factories and Marimekko’s 13, a third Nordic fashion disclosure puts numbers on how much Swedish premium clothing is made in Portugal. Scandinavian Heritage — the Borås-based group formerly called Oscar Jacobson Group, which bought Filippa K in 2025 — placed 20.5% of its 2025 tier-1 garment purchase-order value in Portugal, with 13 direct suppliers, more than in any other country except Italy, according to the group’s 2025 sustainability report, the first published since the merger.
The group reports 2025 revenue of SEK 965 million, 224 employees and the investment company Melby Gård as owner. It now runs two brands side by side: Oscar Jacobson, a menswear and tailoring house founded in 1903 and a Swedish Royal Warrant holder since 1980, and Filippa K, the Stockholm minimalist label founded in 1993. The report says the merger has been followed by a consolidation of the supplier base.
Second only to Bulgaria by value
The combined report lists the group’s tier-1 production countries as follows:
| Country | Share of purchase-order value, 2025 | Direct suppliers | Factories | Subcontracting units |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bulgaria | 21.0% | 1 | 1 | 9 |
| Portugal | 20.5% | 13 | 12 | 7 |
| Türkiye | 19.1% | 5 | 6 | 4 |
| China | 15.5% | 7 | 10 | 0 |
| Italy | 14.1% | 22 | 20 | 12 |
| Romania | 5.9% | 1 | 1 | 0 |
| Spain | 2.2% | 5 | 5 | 0 |
| Lithuania, Tunisia, UK | 1.5% combined | 4 | 3 | 7 |
Source: Scandinavian Heritage, Sustainability Report 2025, “Our supplier base” (published May 2026). The report gives 58 direct suppliers in total and 39 subcontracting units; it does not split the table by brand.
The contrast with Bulgaria is the point. A single Bulgarian supplier, with nine subcontracting units, accounts for 21% of the group’s order value. Portugal’s fifth is spread across 13 suppliers and 12 factories. The group says 84% of its purchased products came from garment suppliers in Europe, including Türkiye, and that it has so far mapped 69% of its Portuguese supply chain. It also reports organising, with another brand, digital human-rights due-diligence training for “a key supplier in Portugal and its subcontracting unit”.
Filippa K: 18 Portuguese factories, some since the 1990s
Filippa K’s last stand-alone report, for 2024, shows how Portuguese the brand was before the merger. Portugal accounted for about 46% of its production value and 58.7% of its volume, and the brand placed orders with 18 Portuguese factories, including three key suppliers, out of 56 factories worldwide. Its Portuguese suppliers make tailoring, jersey and footwear: by NorthSouth HQ’s count of the report’s factory table, five tailoring units, seven jersey units and six footwear units, one of which closed in 2024.
The relationships are long. The brand’s largest Portuguese tailoring supplier has worked with it since 1997 and alone made up 12.2% of Filippa K’s 2024 free-on-board purchases; Filippa K took 35% of that factory’s output. Four more Portuguese factories date from 2000–2002, and together the six largest accounted for roughly 40% of the brand’s total purchases. The report does not name the factories. It does say that two shared Portuguese factories no longer have collective bargaining agreements, and that Filippa K has started work on this with another brand.
The brand has named one Portuguese partner elsewhere: Riopele in Vila Nova de Famalicão, which wove the recycled-fibre Re:sourced Crepe that NorthSouth HQ covered in June.
Oscar Jacobson’s cloth from Covilhã
On the Oscar Jacobson side, Portugal also supplies cloth as well as finished garments. In a supplier portrait on its website, the brand names Paulo de Oliveira of Covilhã, in the Serra da Estrela, as a fabric partner. The portrait describes a vertically integrated mill founded in 1936, with about 550 employees producing more than 7.5 million square metres of fabric a year, mainly for suits, outerwear and uniforms, and more than 21,000 solar panels across its factories. “Paulo de Oliveira brings a unique combination of versatility and quality, making their fabrics an important part of both our spring and autumn collections,” says Carl-Johan Frisk, Oscar Jacobson’s collection manager. Miguel Oliveira, a director of the Paulo Oliveira Group, describes the company as the European market leader in wool stretch fabrics.
Why it matters for the corridor
A premium group with revenue just under SEK 1 billion is a different kind of customer from H&M. Its figures show the same pattern as Marimekko’s: relationships that go back decades, Portuguese tailoring and jersey makers at the core, and a Nordic buyer that keeps most production in Europe as it reorganises its sourcing. The merger brings some risk, because the group says it is consolidating suppliers and Portugal’s share of the combined business is lower than its share of Filippa K’s. But Portugal’s 20.5% is spread across 13 suppliers, while Bulgaria’s comes from one. Portuguese suppliers that already work for one of the two brands now have the chance to win business from the other.
Sources: Scandinavian Heritage (Oscar Jacobson Group), Sustainability Report 2025, PDF published on filippa-k.com, May 2026; Filippa K, Sustainability Report 2024, April 2025 (country evaluation, supplier relationships and Portugal factory table); Oscar Jacobson, “Supplier Portrait Oliveira”, oscarjacobson.com. Factory counts by product group are NorthSouth HQ’s tally of the Filippa K 2024 table.